The Law of Unintended Consequences

During my morning walk, I observed a mongoose for the second time as it crossed the path in front of me. The mongoose was introduced to Okinawa in 1910 to control the venemous Habu snake, however, that logic has backfired. The mongoose is a nocturnal predator, while their intended prey hunts during the day. Since their introduction to Okinawa, the mongoose (and feral cat) population has expanded resulting in negative effects on species of native birds, mammals, and reptiles. Mongoose readily eat eggs and young and have contributed to the decline of rare bird species such as the Okinawa Rail and Pryer's Woodpecker.

Mongoose

Controlling the mongoose and feral cat population is key to preserving these endangered species. When Joanne & I were hiking up north this past weekend in the Yanbaru forest, we observed many live traps set along the trail as part of an ongoing mongoose & feral cat eradication program. Although we didn't see any captured animals (or Habu), we did see a van along the road with a several men resetting traps. (BTW, I did see my first Pryer's Woodpecker, a bird endemic only to northern Okinawa.)

Mongoose in Trap

And in case you were wondering,Trimeresurus flavoviridis, or the Okinawan Habu, is a true pit viper averaging 4-5 feet in legth. They are not typically aggressive but will bite if provoked. Until recently over 300 people in a year used to be bitten by the snake while working in the field or in one’s garden. The snake often occurs in close proximity to country homes in search of rats and mice and it is not uncommon to encounter one inside houses, barns, etc. Though fatal cases are rare since the intoduction of anti-venom, Habu-biting incidents still number about 100 a year in Okinawa. Its potent venom combined with its nasty temperment is feared and revered in the islanders’ mind.

Habu

Birding In Okinawa

With its year-round sub-tropical climate and diverse habitat (coastal, tidal flats, wetlands, fields and forests), Okinawa abounds with birds. In less than 3 weeks on the island, I ticked 60 species to include 14 life-birds (BTW, the Japanese word for bird is tori). In addition to the avifauna that lives and breeds on Okinawa throughout the year, many species pass through during the fall and spring migrations or winter on the island. Fall migrants passing through head to points south such as the Philippine Islands, Taiwan or Australia where they spend the winter. During the spring, migrant birds return north to breed in locations as diverse as mainland Japan, western Siberia, Korea or the Aleutian Islands of Alaska.

Thanks to an email referral via the “Birding Pals” website, I have had the good fortune to make contact with and befriend an American in Okinawa who is an avid birder. To date, we have made three full-day birding excursions together. Dan has lived on island for over 20 years, knows the island and all of the birding hot spots like the back of his hand and is conversant in Japanese, a definite plus in getting around. He’s the manager of the Camp Courtney Marine Corp base commissary located on the other (Pacific) side of the island. He’s also a very well-rounded naturalist and bird photographer. You can check out his photos at: http://www.birdforum.net/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=56176.

Many birders come to Okinawa to seek out 3 species of birds found nowhere else in the world. The Okinawa Rail (discovered in 1981) & Pryer’s Woodpecker are endemic to Okinawa, while the Ryukyu Robin is endemic to the Ryukyu Islands (Okinawa is the largest island of this group). These birds reside in the northern Yambura region, which is covered with dense, jungle-like forest. On my first outing with Dan, we had excellent looks at the elusive Ryukyu Robin - a displaying male and his nearby object of affection partially hidden in some branches.

Ryukyu Robin (male)

We heard Pryer’s Woodpecker calling and drumming on trees but one never showed in the open. Fortunately, there will be more opportunities to visit this beautiful and unspoiled region of Okinawa and to look for these highly regarded birds.

Pryer's Woodpecker

Okinawa Rail

On our second outing, Dan & I headed south to a wetlands area to try for Black-faced Spoonbill, a highly endangered species with a population estimate of only 1,500 left in the wild. This species breeds in Korea where wetlands are disappearing at an alarming pace due to land reclamation. A handful of these migrant birds spend their winter on Okinawa. Luck was on our side that day as we observed several spoonbills feeding in a small estuary pool.

Black-faced Spoonbill

Here are some more pictures of my favorite birds that are common on Okinawa:

Japanese White-Eye

Light-vented Bulbul

Blue Rock Thrush

White Wagtail

Common Kingfisher

Except for my photos of the spoonbills, all other photos were downloaded from the internet.

Good birding!

A Few Facts About Yomitan

Yomitan (読谷村, Yomitan-son) is a village located in Nakagami District in Okinawa, Japan. The village has an population of approximately 39,000 people. It has adopted as its symbol the flying phoenix, playing on the fact that the shape of the village resembles a bird in flight. The village flower is the bougainvillea.

Government: Since Yomitan is designated as a village, it is under the administration of Nakagami District. If Yomitan reaches a population of over 50,000 it can then be classified as a city, thereby gaining a measure of autonomy and independence.

Geography: Yomitan is bounded to the north by the village of Onna, to the east by Okinawa City, to the south by Kadena and to the west by the East China Sea. 31.5% of the land area is zoned for agriculture, 35.7% is zoned as forest, 12.3% is zoned for housing, and the remaining 20.6% is zoned for other uses.

History: During WWII, Yomitan was the site of the initial landing of the Allied Forces in the Battle of Okinawa. Caves in the coral rock, where the Japanese were dug in, are still visible along the beach.

Industry: 6% of the working population of Yomitan is engaged in "primary" industries such as agriculture and fishing, 25% is engaged in "secondary" industries such as food processing and manufacturing, and 69% is engaged in the "tertiary" industries such as services and trade.

Agriculture: The chief cash crop of Yomitan is the chrysanthemum, which can be grown in Okinawa during the winter months with the aid of heat lamps at night. Chrysanthemums are followed in value by sugarcane and pigs, in that order. Sugarcane is particularly suited to cultivation in Okinawa, as it does not require significant infrastructure (such as irrigation), grows well in Okinawa's soil, and can be left unattended for 18 months until harvest. Another important crop in Yomitan is the beni imo, or purple sweet potato. It is grown not so much for its value as a cash crop but as part of the local culture and for the tourist industry. Yomitan promotes itself as the "beni imo hometown" and holds a "beni imo musume" (Miss Beni Imo) contest each year. Sweet potato cultivation first reached Japan via Okinawa from present-day Taiwan, predating rice cultivation, and either Yomitan or neighboring Kadena can lay claim as the first cultivators of sweet potato in Japan.

Tourism: In addition to beautiful and largely unspoiled beaches, Yomitan attracts tourists for its folk crafts to include pottery, glassblowing, sugar making and salt making. There are several facilities where tourists can try their hand at these crafts, and take their handiwork home as souvenirs. Also of interest are the Zakimi gusuku, or Zakimi castle ruins.

U.S. Military Bases: Approximately 36% of the village is leased from the village and local landowners to the Ministry of Defense of Japan and used as U.S. military bases bases under the U.S.-Japan Staus of Forces Agreement. Two facilities, Tori Communications Station (Army) and part of the Kadena Ammunition Storage Area (Air Force & Marine), are located in the village.

The 34th Annual Yomitan Festival

On Sunday, November 2nd, Joanne & I attended the local annual Yomitan festival. The event is similar to a county fair with best in show exhibits, craft exhibitions, entertainment, etc. We had a heavy downpour earlier in the morning so the festival grounds were a tad muddy, but that didn’t dampen the spirit of the crowds & festivities. The kids, who are just adorable, especially had fun stomping around in the mud. The Okinawan people are known for their hospitality and joyful manner, which was evident in our interactions at the festival. As Westerners, there is no pretending to blend in. Okinawans are a short-statured people, so Joanne & I were walking tall among the crowd. Here’s a sequence of photos capturing the some of the activities at the event:

Bonzai Best of Show - bougainvillea, pine, holly, Japanese maple:

The entertainment included seniors performing traditional dances, youngsters playing drums and the sanshin (similar to a three string lute), and dragons executing some fancy footwork –

Produce Best of Show - this sequence of pictures illustates a couple of items out of the Little Shop of Horrors, green papaya, fresh ginger root & sweet potatoes, an Okinawan specialty crop –

Lots of new foods to try and yours truly enjoying a Okinawan version of an omelet and a Japanese beer –

Joanne perusing locally produced pottery, a traditional craft found throughout Okinawa. Yomitan hosts a pottery village, a living and working center for Yomitan potters.

A senior citizen in traditional garb. The Okinawans have one of the longest life expectancies in the world and one of the highest rates of centenarians per capita. One quickly notices the vitality of the senior population, whether riding bicycles, working in the fields or fishing along the beach.

Sugar cane is grown extensively throughout the island. This sequence of pictures illustrates harvested sugar canes, the canes being fed into a press that extracts the juice, and a 105 year old Okinawan woman reducing the juice to a molasses-like consistency by boiling off excess water.

Produce Market with sweet potatoes and daikon radishes in the foreground. Island-grown tangerines and persimmons are currently in season. –

An Okinawan mud stomper (note the Crocs), a camera-shy subject, and a not-so-shy group of senior ladies –

Replica of a traditional 15th century Ryukyu trading vessel. The Ryukyu Islands (Okinawa is the largest island in the Ryukyu archipelago) historically have had greater trading and cultural ties to China then to Japan.

The license plate on Joanne’s car. All American military issued plates have the “Y” symbol and the going joke is that Y=Yankee=Yen.